Versailles: like Disneyland but no fun

We did everything the guidebook said. We bought tickets ahead of time online and we woke up early but somehow we were still unprepared for Versailles.

Short version: expensive, long lines, screaming kids and just not as impressive as the Louvre 

Long version:  

We walked to the metro station by Notre Dame to avoid transfers. When we got there we found that all four metro stations in downtown Paris  that serve the C line to Versailles are closed for a month for repair. The Versailles website never mentioned this and it was unexpected. We went to another metro station nearby and caught the metro to open station with the C line. That went smoothly enough and we made it to Versailles at 9:30 when it opens at 9. We had planned to get there earlier we already had tickets but the metro issues put us behind schedule. The lines were insane. Like Disneyland but without order. Lines snaked up and down the courtyard. Kids screamed and ran about.  We were in line an hour before we got inside. Once inside the chateau was cramped and it was utter chaos. Walking through the exhibit would be like shuffling through a sea of people and elbows at a glacial pace so we headed out for the gardens not realizing that when we returned to the chateau later we would need to wait in line again. The gardens were impressive. The entire landscape is vast. Each fountained area is encircled by marble statues. One of interest is a series of statues depicting each of the continents. Here is the one for the Americas.

So we looked at the map which had dozens of points of interest marked for the gardens. We picked the most interesting sounding ones and walked towards them. The dragon fountain looked like something out of science fiction. 

We tried to visit another point marked on the map and it was closed off. So were 4 others. Frustrated we headed back and followed the grand canal to an area with the only grass near Paris you can sit on. 

That's right we went 35 minutes out of Paris to sit on grass just like we would do any sunny day back home at volunteer park. After enjoying the feeling of cool grass between our toes we headed to the Grand Trianon. This smaller palace was a getaway for the King. 

The whole place is covered in pink marble. We toured a few rooms and headed over to the petite Trianon. By now Sean is doing his best not to whine like all the kids dragged along by their parents and I am trying to put on a happy face but neither of us are having much fun. We get sandwiches from a stand and eat in the grass by the Grand Canal which is one of the highlights of the day. 

On the way back to the chateau we stop by L'Orangerie which is this coold building they use to house their oranges in the winter. It was filled with a very unique temporary photography exhibit. All of the photographs were taken out of one window in Korea over the course of 4 years. The artist took 2000 photos a day and the gallery exhibits some unique shots of nature and the seasons from a variety of perspectives. The gardens by the L'Orangerie filled with their pampered potted orange trees were quite exquisite.

We headed back to the Chateau and had to wait in line to get in... Again. This time it was only 20 minutes or so in the blaring sun. We got inside and were shuffled from room to room. Even with the chateau less crowded there was still a steady stream of people setting the pace. It was like being on a moving walkway except people were pushing, elbows were thrown, people were trying to get in front of you and a few brave souls who stopped to take pictures caused massive congestion. The rooms did not seem

very grand it was hard to imagine what was in them. The audio tour was informative but you couldn't really take it all in. Writing this entry a few days later I barely remember the chateau but I do have a few pictures. 

Russian Malachite gifts from Russia

The exterior from the Garden terrace.

A view of the Gardens 

In short, Versailles was a bust. 

My recommendation: 

On a nice day the gardens are fabulous and free. Take the train out to Versailles and go directly to the gardens there are many entrances including one to the left of the main chateau. There are no lines. Pack a big picnic. Stroll the gardens. Have a picnic. Rent a row boat for an hour and if you have your heart set on seeing the chateau it is free after 4pm. You can head in for free get pushed around and if you don't have a good time well it didn't cost you anything and the picnic was surely fabulous.