Monday, August 19, 2013

Restaurants in Nice

Honestly we have not had almost no bad meals in Nice. Our one bad experience was a cafe across from the Palais Justice that was so slow we almost left. Otherwise the meals were great. But here are the best (Papayou, La Baie d'Almafi, Farvola, King Kebap, Chez Mirabella, Voyageur Nissart, and La Voglia)

Papayou
date visited: August 12, 2013 dinner
location: Old town Nice

Mondays in Nice are a lot like Sundays, many places are closed. This was our last night in Nice and we wanted to go out for a good meal but all of our first choices (about 10 places) were either closed on Mondays or were on August holiday. So we ended up wandering around old town Nice at night looking for a place. We passed by this place a few times in our wandering, it looked good, it was busy and I vaguely remembered it having good reviews on trip advisor. However it wasn't until we saw the menu that I realized they served Thai food and traditional Nice dishes. 


We decided to try their Thai items. The special for the night was a Thai tuna tartar in coconut milk. So my husband ordered that and I had the Lemongrass Thai beef salad. And to start we ordered their spring rolls. 

The spring rolls were heavenly. Perfectly fried and crispy they came with mint and lettuce leaves. Our server who spoke perfect English suggested that we take the spring roll roll it up in the lettuce with some mint and then dip it into the sauce. It was divine. I have had spring rolls a lot in the US and the biggest difference was the presentation and also the unique combination of mint and the sauce. She couldn't have been more right. It was so delightful that after we spit the first basket of 3, I was tempted to order more. 

My salad was refreshing but not an entree sized portion. It was the first time in our 3 week trip that I wasn't overfed. It was clearly small enough to be a starter but it was hearty enough that with the spring rolls and dessert, I was full. The beef was seared but rare in the middle. It was in a light refreshing mix of bean sprouts and cabbage. 

The tuna tartar Sean ordered was certainly the star of the show. The raw Tuna was swimming in coconut milk and lemon juice. The tuna was thickly cut into cubes and the portion was more than ample. The woman sitting beside us could not finish hers and Sean was struggling with his. Of course I helped him out, I am a sucker for raw tuna. The dish was refreshing on a warm night and a unique twist on a classic favorite. 

Dessert was nothing to write home about. We had the peach soup which sounded interesting but just tasted like fruit cocktail and creme brûlée which was nothing spectacular.

We enjoyed our last night in Nice in the hustle and bustle of old town over a very fine meal. 

La Baie d'Almafi
date visited: August 8, 2013, dinner
location: Just off Jean Medicin, Nice

We passed this place at the end of lunch and the food looked good so we came back later in the day for dinner. We strolled by around 9:30pm and they were still seating for dinner. The restaurant has a large patio and a luxurious interior. We were seated inside by an open window. The cuisine is coastal Italian offering both a la carte and menu. The lunch menu is 20 Euro and dinner is a steep 35 Euro but the selection was fabulous. We got some looks but one of us ordered the 3 course menu and the other ordered a plate with the intention of splitting the appetizer and dessert.

The appetizer was a seafood carpaccio. It had smoked tuna steak, fresh raw scallops, and prawns in a lemon juice sauce. I had never had smoked tuna, it has an unusual umber color but a salty smokey flavor with the hearty texture of tuna steak. The scallops were so sweet and succulent, the lemon juice   leaving the flesh opaque. It was a large portion and the highlight of the menu.

For entrees, I had the rack of lamb and Sean had mullet. The rack of lamb included three full chops with vegetables and potato. The lamb was perfectly cooked. Slightly pink in the center. Sean's fish was a full fillet on a bed of sauteed vegetables in a sort of ragu. Both were excellent.

For dessert we had a sophisticated modern dessert that was comprised of a gelato with fresh strawberries, whipped cream, orange foam, and some sort of red fruit gastrique. The flavors were sweet refreshing and complex. We ordered two cafes to go along with dessert instead of after.

After we finished our meal the owner came out with two chilled shot glasses filled to the brim with lemoncello.

Of all the places we ate in Nice, this was our favorite. The food was excellent but not the best we had in Nice however the service was superb and the decor was classy which made it the best overall experience. It felt like a real date night.

Farvola 
date visited: August 8, 2013, lunch
location: Old town, Nice 
While walking around the flower market in old town we came upon this busy little restaurant. All the lunchtime seating was under the awning on their patio with excellent people watching. We ordered a salad and pizza to split. 

The salad was robust including half a cantaloupe cut into large slices including the rind. Half an avocado also with the rind. A two large balls of buffalo Mozzarella and many slices of transparent Italian ham. All on a bed of mixed greens lightly dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette. It seems that in Nice it is often to get undressed or barely dressed salads as oil and vinegar are always on the table in bottles.  

The pizza we ordered was a margarita pizza which in US typically includes large leaves of fresh sweet basil on it. Much to our disappointment, this is not the case in Nice. Margarita pizza is just cheese. But the pizza was still excellent. Thin crust and cooked in a wood fire oven. Pizza in Nice (and in Paris the one palace we had it) is served with oil infused with chili peppers (instead of red pepper flakes). The pizza and salad were a great lunch and the people watching made for an enjoyable afternoon. 

King Kebap  
date visited: multiple nights, late dinner
location: By SNCF Gare, Nice 
I don't want to admit exactly we had doner kebabs while in Nice but it was more than one and less than a million. And surprisingly none of the times were we drunk (since it seems to be the drunk food of choice in Europe). But King Kebap's was our favorite doner kebab place in Nice. Located right on Jean Medicin (main pedestrian road downtown) it is competing against popular fast food such as KFC, McDonalds and the Belgian fast food chain Quick. Sean picked up our doner kebabs the first time we got them and had quite the amusing tale to tell. The night he went only one of the employees spoke some English. Sean ordered two kebabs and the employees kept trying to push French fries and condiments (two distinctly American things) on Sean. 

"ketchup?"
"No"
"Mustard?"
"No"
"Mayonnaise?"
"Eh no" 

Finally from the back where a man is preparing the wraps the cook yells
"Garlic and spicy?"
"Yes!" 
"Yeah that's how we eat  in Turkey"

The best part of King Kebaps is the meat. It is juicy but slivers of the shaved lamb are crispy on the outside. The meat is well spiced and the sandwich makes for a delicious late night or quick meal. The kebab sandwich is 5-6 Euro making it an economical choice and something hard to get in the US. 

Chez Mirabella 
date visited:August 7, 2013, lunch
location: By SNCF Gare, Nice
Our landlord in Nice listed this place in their book of recommendations. It is almost a stone throw from our flat. The lunch special is paella and a glass of Sangria for 13.50 Euros. The sangria had a spiced wine taste that was unusual but not unpleasant. Sangria is often made with cinnamon but you could really taste it in this. The paella was a massive gut stuffing portion. My husband ordered the paella de mer and I had the paella de terre. Both contained at least 10 succulent mussels (my husbands had even more). The mer included a large king prawn and mine had a whole chicken breast and a third of a chorizo sausage as well. Each was served in a cast iron skillet with bread and lemons that could be freshly squeezed from a handy little device. The food was amazing if not overly plentiful. The decor was chic and clearly Spanish. It was a pleasant surprise to get paella in Nice and so worth it.
Voyageur  Nissart
date visited:August 6, 2013, dinner
location: By SNCF Gare, Nice
The owner of our rental in Nice recommended this restaurant. Between my husband and I we had the salad nicoise, gnocchi, lamb, mullet, lemon tart and tiramisu. The three courses was 19.50 although they offer a less expensive menu for 16.50 (Euro). Everything tasted good but the lamb was cooked perfectly a heavy sear on the outside and pink in the middle. The gnocchi was passable. By far the most exceptional dish was the lemon tart. It was worth the trip alone. It had a strong citrus flavor, a custard-like consistency and the top was caramelized so you could crack it like creme brûlée. The service however was slow and disorganized.The meal took 3 hours but at least an hour of that (if not more) was collective time spent waiting. Perhaps they were having an off night. I am glad I was there with someone whose company I adore or it might have been an especially frustrating meal. The food was some of the best we had in Nice and if the service was better it might have been the best restaurant we visited.
La Voglia 
date visited:August 5, 2013, dinner
location: Old town, Nice
This was the first meal we had in Nice. Upon arriving to the city we checked into our apartment and then went for a walk around town to scope things out. Being a Monday many places were closed. We walked down to the water to watch the sunset and then set out to find a restaurant. Near where the flower market is set up during the day by the Nice Opera house is a large square with restaurants on either flanking side. Most serve traditional nicoise cuisine or pre-cooked seafood on display on ice in the street. We spotted a few dishes on tables and decided to eat here. The restaurant is large even cavernous and they seated us towards the back. The decor was chic and our waiter spoke excellent English. This was the first restaurant we tried the local variety of wine a rose made in Provence. It is a dry wine which is always a bit surprising since many roses in the US are sweet. 

The majority of the menu is pasta or seafood or both. The portions leave little room for dessert. Sean ordered a prawn  gnocchi  and was surprised when the server brought a small plate and moist towelette. Gnocchi was invented in Nice and is available on nearly every menu. The gnocchi was swimming in a tomato based sauce and topped with several large whole head-on prawns. Suddenly the moist towelette made sense. I ordered a tuna pasta. The pasta was perfectly al dente and coated in a tomato sauce with chunks of shredded tuna and vegetables throughout. This meal was a great introduction of what to expect from food in Nice and a pleasant pasta surprise. 


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