Saturday, August 3, 2013

Tips for dining in Paris

Eating is one of the highlights of any good trip. This post will include tips for dining and the next post will include a list of restaurants we have tried.

Tips for dining in Paris:

1. Plan ahead

Sean and I are spoiled living in Seattle where the quality of food is high even in mid or low range options. If you want a good meal in Paris, check reviews on trip advisor (they have a website, a phone app and a downloadable guide for major cities like Paris for your phone that does not need Internet access). You can also cross reference on yelp but trip advisor is more commonly used. 

2. If you are not in the mood or unwilling to pay 20 Euro a person for a good meal, go to a food stand

There are many inexpensive quick options in Paris. Falaffel, Lebanese food, Chinese, sandwiches, etc. Some of them are out of this world good. I had a falafel sandwich in Le Marais that took the cake (read all about it in the next post). But if they are not the greatest it was a small investment and you are still fed. 


3. You didn't plan for a restaurant and you want a sit down meal. Cafes are everywhere but many are just not very good and still cost 10-15 Euro a person. When looking for a good restaurant without a review, avoid major streets. Good restaurants tend to be tucked away on side streets, they don't need foot traffic to be successful because their food is good. Avoid places that cater to tourists by having their menu in five languages posted. Avoid places with cheeseburgers on the menu. 

If you happen to get a look at the food, that can always help. For lunch the day we we went to the Louvre we planned a known good cafe but on the way there we passed a restaurant and the food looked amazing. We ended up coming back to it instead of the cafe because the prices were reasonable and we knew it would be good. (Review on the next post) 

4. Eat on the French Schedule. 

Breakfast is not an official meal. Petit déjeuner is usually cafe (In France cafe is an espresso) and a croissant. Or tartine (toasted baguette) with butter (woo finally). Some places will combine these for a big breakfast with cafe, orange juice, baguette and croissant. 

Lunch is typically between 11-1 although some places will serve until 2 or 3. If you are having a busy day at a museum you may miss the typical lunch time and then you should get a sandwich and get hungry for dinner. Lunch is not a light meal. Often the same sort of formula (multi-course meals) are offered during lunch and even the salads in France are hearty. 

Parisians eat dinner after 7pm. 8-9:30 being typical times. Depending on the area they may serve dinner up until 11. Bars are open until 2am. 

5.Always bring a pocket culinary dictionary

The French have specific words for everything food. Some servers speak English well, some can take your order but not explain the dishes. The lonely planet pocket French guide has a culinary section that has served us well. It allows us to interpret a menu while standing outside a restaurant or before we order. I assume you could also look for a culinary dictionary specifically but so far the lonely planet pocket guide easily fits in a purse or back pocket has been a huge help. 

6. Know the regional cuisines in France. Most French restaurants in France specialize in a specific region. It is a diverse country. Much like in the US unless you go to the Cheesecake Factory, you are unlikely to find southern, Tex mex, and Pacific Northwest salmon on the same menu. You can have French food every night and have it taste totally different if you explore the many culinary regions. 

7. General stuff you already know if you read Rick Steve's or have been to Paris before:
-- tax and tip are included in the prices 
-- They will not bring the check unless you ask for it. 
--Coffee is served after dessert not with it unless you ask 
-- There is no such thing as a free refill. Not even at McDonalds 
-- Sitting outside costs more than inside. Sitting at a table costs more than eating at the bar. For breakfast most people get their cafe and croissant at the counter for 1.5 Euro and if you have it at a table it will be 4 or more Euro. A noisette (espresso with a little steamed milk) costs the same as a cafe (espresso) and much much less than a cafe au lait (latte). 
-- Coca cola (soda in general) is expensive. Often beer is the same price or cheaper. Wine by the glass is cheaper. Sparkling water is cheaper. If you really just need a good ice cold coke from time to time buy them from the store and keep them in the fridge. In most cases a coke at a restaurant will be 2-3 Euro for one can. At the fancy restaurant at the Louvre it was 6.10 Euro for one can.




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