Ligurian Coast,God's Country: storm seas and the hike from hell

Scenes from Liguria

 

When we planned our trip to Italy, I wanted a few stops to be off the beaten path. We wanted not only to have good stories to tell or beautiful sights to see but also to give our trip a sense of adventure. That internal feeling of discovery that comes from experiencing something unique - to remind you that time is not just a flat circle.

Unfortunately not all adventures are purely positive experiences. And our trip to the Ligurian coast certainly had its ups and downs. Our time on the rocky cliffs overlooking the deep blue sea were as tumultuous as the weather.

Even before we left Florence the forecast for Camogli predicted rain. Not just rain but thunderstorms. We considered canceling but the policy of the hotel was unforgiving. The hotel I chose, the Stella Maris is a boutique hotel tucked into the cliffs of a huge nature park. Spectacular sea views and fine dining. Only accessible by foot or boat. The boat ride, a 15 minute trip on a large ferry with a capacity of 200 that in the summer heat no doubt is packed full of bathing suit clad Italian tourists. However looking at the forecast we only hoped that it would be running. If not we could call the hotel to send a small dingy to get us for 30 euro or we could walk. We tried to call the hotel about our best options in the event of in-climate weather but the receptionist did not speak English and the call ended with a hang up from the hotel’s end. Not a good sign.

Sure enough on the day we landed in Camogli two easy trains from Florence, the skies were dark.



We made our way down to the harbor along a steep staircase, the public elevator out of service and found many tourists waiting for the boat. No signs said it was closed but as it started pouring and locals in the distance pointed we called the boat line. No boats today. We called the hotel and asked them to send the boat which was met with a “not possible” reply before the call disconnected.

Camogli Harbor the day of our arrival

Google maps showed the walking path from the nearby town of San Rocco to the hotel as being all downhill. The instructions for the hotel said to pack light and recommended a place in town to store luggage but Sean was convinced the short downhill walk would be fine. The few photos of the path showed it paved. We hike a lot in Seattle. We had already clocked well over 30 miles walking so far this trip. With false confidence we took a cab to San Rocco. The cab driver was surprised by our suredness. He said you could make it to the hotel with the bags if you were strong.  We each had a 50lb roller bag and a 20-30lb backpack with us.

The downhill portion of our hike Google maps thought we were skiing, not sure why.

The first few hundred feet were paved smooth and gently sloped downhill. The bags rolled easily. No problem. Then we were met with a steep stone staircase down. No problem get the 450 feet elevation drop done early we thought. Sean being the gentleman he is offered to carry both roller bags down the stairs as I followed with both pack.

Then the nicely paved road ended and the path turned to jagged cobbles and paver stones. It threatened to rain. What should have been a pleasant 40 minute, 2km trek, turned painful and ugly as we grew more tired.



It took strength to pull the heavy bags through the mud and gravel. There was a lot more staircase and I started carrying my own bag down them. It was a long hard hike down to the water with so much stuff and when we finally reached the bottom a sign saying our hotel was 7 minutes away up a treacherous slippery stone staircase it began to not rain but pour.

I wanted to cry. The rain coming down in buckets. My shirt soaked through and clinging to my chest. Sean lost his glasses somewhere around here.

After over an hour we made it to the hotel. Soaked to the bone, sour and unhappy. Once we got there I tried to relax. It was truly a beautiful place. The hotel a former monastery dating back to the 900s converted into many rooms on different levels. Our room a small square with blood red walls, hooks from the arched ceiling, stone masonry exposed in parts of the drywall and a powder room that looked like a dungeon. It was a unique room to say the least.

Photo of our room from the hotel website. Notice the hooks on the curved ceiling and the jailer bars on the window to the powder room.

Despite the hotel’s website being in both Italian and English,  none of the fall staff spoke English. Not only did they not speak English most tried to avoid speaking to us at all. It made an already difficult experience more difficult as the weather did not improve during our stay.

Panoramic of the trail. The railings draped with traditional Ligurian fishing nets

Our only meals eaten at the expensive ocean view hotel restaurant. The room included breakfast but the staff did not inform us and I only found that while looking through my original booking confirmation. So we only ate lunch each day and broke into our stash of Chianti classico for dinner. The food at the restaurant all seafood was expertly prepared (mostly octopus and squid) but the waiter who was friendly to us once he found out I spoke some French seemed like he had never served in a restaurant before.

Views of Camogli from the Sea, Abby, Trail, Monastery ruins and the map

There is a beautiful abbey on the peninsula that looks like a palace with crystal clear water. It was built in 1100 by monks to house the remains of a Spanish bishop who died at sea. It was later remodeled by an Italian princess. Much like the hotel, it is only accessible from boat or foot. After our first night we were eager to explore. The boat however was not running again but the manager assured us it would be the next day, the day we were scheduled to leave. We thought about walking to the abbey it is close as the crow flies and the distance of the path was short enough it should take an hour or so. However as we set out for the trail dressed to hike, the trail head showed the time as being 3 hours. And the trail was designated with an E for experienced hiker. (The trail from San Rocco to the hotel was marked T for tourist). 

Photograph of the Map

The trail poorly marked after the rain and the ground soggy climbing a cliff didn't sound like a good idea after all. We explored the areas by the hotel. We went back to look for Sean's glasses on the staircase that felt impossible the day before but without bags was little more than a flight of steps. We tried to see if any of the other four restaurants on the peninsula were open, all closed.

Camogli. So close and yet so far. Taken from the boat on the way back. Best weather we had.

We could hike an hour and a half up and down hill to Camogli the port town for lunch (we passed a restaurant on the way to the harbor with a Michelin plate) but the forecast called for thunderstorms in the afternoon and while we could get there dry, the way back would be dangerous. We were trapped. Trapped in one of the most beautiful unspoiled parts of the country but trapped all the same.

We tried to make the best of the situation.Enjoy the views. Storm watch. Relax.

View from the Hotel at Sunset

Poem by Lord Byron written in two locations on the Cliffs

But for Sean all he could think about was being trapped. He worried the whole time about the weather clearing in time for us to get out the next day. The tension at times in our little lovenest turned prison was thick. It clung in the air like a heavy fog. The anxiety spread that night to me when it looked like the promised sunshine might be delayed.

The next morning we woke up to the sun. Never have I felt so relieved about weather. Hail on my wedding day could not stop the festivities but I worried that if the weather did not clear my marriage might have been irreparably harmed. We had a lovely breakfast in the windowed restaurant we would have appreciated much the day before. We asked the desk and the boat was running. Hallelujah! The first boat was at 9:45 but we were so eager we waited at the dock at 9am. We saw that glorious boat headed to the dock at 9:15 to drop off groceries to anxious locals and picked us to as it went on to the abbey. So we got to see the abbey after all! At least from the boat. Our luck had shifted and it was a good day.

Panoramic Photo of the Abby taken from the Boat

View of Camogli from the Boat

Awesome Geological Formation under the town of San Rocco where we hiked down from. The best part (the exposed rock showing plate tectonics in action only viewable from the harbor)

The more expensive and preferential train to Bologna that included only one change in Milan was completely booked. I had hesitated getting tickets the night before since I was now worried about us making it out. So instead we had to take 4 trains to get to Bologna but the rails ran on time and we reached the fat city in the afternoon.

While there have been other tense moments on past trips that we collectively agreed never to speak of again this one was too big to let go. The story while not sunshine and rainbows was an adventure. After going through such a harrowing hike it felt like we could do anything. Any potential snag in our plans was met with a shrug. Nothing we experienced the rest of the trip would be as challenging. They say what doesn't kill you only makes you stronger and indeed I felt stronger.

Collage of images graphs in the center were taken from a facebook meme, the hotel room photo is off the hotel website. The rest I took.

Up next our time in Bologna! The unfinished church,the city history, the food and our chance to be Mister Rogers for a day.